June 28, 2012

Roasted Cod with Garlic Scape Pesto and Leftovers

roasted lemons | fish

Lately, I've been thinking a lot about leftovers. Let's face it, they are lowest on the food totem pole and I don't really understand why. I think a lot of it has to do with branding and expectations.

lemon | scape pesto | breadcrumbs

Just the very term leftovers is off-putting. In the thesaurus, its synonyms are: scraps, unwanted, residue and remnants. A rather gloomy crew. Uttering the word conjures immediate images of meatloaf turned gray in the fridge, or soggy roasted veggies that have lost their crispy veneer. Leftovers makes me think of food that is but a shell of what it was the night before.

garlic scape pesto

Yes, some food, on the second or third day, is rather unappetizing. But, many foods are actually better as they, er, let's say, mature, in the fridge for a day or two or even three.

Imagine if we called the food that is left after dinner, second helpings or extra portions or vintage. Ok, so maybe vintage isn't the best idea - I'm pretty sure no one wants vintage chicken - but, you catch my drift. When called vintage, suddenly old clothes that someone else didn't want become valued and coveted. In the same way, I think a little re-branding could do leftovers a world of good. Leftovers just need some good PR.

lemon rounds

Most times, the lackluster next-day meal is not the fault of the food - it's our fault for not really trying our hardest with it. Let's be honest - when it comes to leftovers second helpings we have low expectations and, as is often the case in life, when you set the bar low, there is no such thing as rising to the occasion. Those second helpings didn't have a shot from the moment they were wrapped in plastic wrap or tupperware and thrown into the back of the fridge. We just want leftovers to feed us, whereas, when we originally cooked the food in question, we expected it to feed us and taste amazing and look appetizing. But, if rather than simply reheating it to within an inch of its life in a day or two, we re-imagined what it could be and gussied it up a bit, then I think we might be pleasantly surprised with the outcome.

Pesto is definitely a food that benefits from a little R & R in the fridge. When left to its own devices, the flavors develop so when brought out for its second round, pesto is often tastier than it was the first time around. Plus, it lends itself to being re-imagined. Pesto can be a sauce or a dip or a salad dressing or a veggie topper - it can be whatever we want it to be.

lemons | scape pesto | cod

I made this garlic scape pesto last week and I used it to coat pasta mixed with summer veggies. I put the extra pesto in the fridge and kind of forgot about it. Last night, I was tired and lazy and, thankfully, I had some fish in the fridge {Wild Atlantic Cod caught hook & line style} but I had little else. And then, as I aggressively pushed aside the OJ and Milk in a hungry fit, I saw it. The garlic scape pesto from last week. Boom. It breathed new life into this meal.

Season the cod with salt and pepper, slather with garlic scape pesto, a sprinkling of bread crumbs, a few lemon slices - 5 minutes later, literally 5 minutes, it was in the 375º oven. 15 minutes later - it was on my plate.

roasted cod | breadcrumbsMy point is that leftovers extra portions can be a blessing - a gift from the culinary gods. Food that is already cooked and seasoned and that, with just a little bit of imagination, can make our lives easier because it's already half-way to the table. And it stretches our dollars, which is always a bonus.
Here's to my leftover revolution. 
What do you think - second helpings or extra portions? Or what would you call them? 

{Tips}
You can use any pesto you have on hand for this, or other spreads like olive tapenade, hummus, etc.
Or maybe you have leftover roasted carrots from last night? Puree them and layer it on top instead of the pesto.

June 26, 2012

Strawberry-Sorrel Crisp

sorrel | strawberry

Sorrel is a green with a serious identity issue. Is it an herb or a veggie? Is it savory or sweet? It always keeps you guessing. Sorrel is multifaceted and that's what I love about it. How many greens can be used for both dessert and dinner? I mean, I like kale as much as the next cook, but there's no way I'm making a kale cobbler.

IMG_4939

One bite of a sorrel leaf and you'll understand what I mean. You go into it thinking it's going to be green and leafy tasting, maybe even bitter. But then you're sucker-punched by the most mouth-puckering sourness. I find munching on a raw sorrel leaf more tart than sucking on a lemon wedge. Not that I am in the habit of doing either.

strawberries | sorrel

In many ways, sorrel's flavor matches that of rhubarb, which is also a pretty multitalented veggie that I always see in both sweet and savory dishes. Lately, I've seen lots of sweet red strawberries at the market, and often sharing the table are bunches of vibrantly green sorrel leaves. Using the trusty transitive property - that's right, dropping some Algebra knowledge - I figured out that strawberry and sorrel would be perfect for each other. Since strawberry and rhubarb are a match made in heaven, and rhubarb is reminiscent of sorrel, it must mean that strawberry and sorrel would be a dynamic duo.

strawberries | skillet

Thank you 10th grade Algebra, because that equation worked out perfectly. So glad I paid attention that day.

crisp topping
What you'll need:
1 pint fresh strawberries {yielding around 3 cups sliced}
1 small bunch fresh sorrel {around 8-10 leaves)
1/4 cup sugar
1-2 Tablespoons of flour or cornstarch

For the topping:
5 Tablespoons unsalted butter
2/3 cup flour
1/3 cup oats
1/4 cup brown sugar
2 Tablespoons sugar
A pinch of salt

Preheat the oven to 350ºF.

Trim the tops from the strawberries. Cut the strawberries into slices about 1 inch thick.
Remove the ribs from the sorrel leaves and discard.
Stack the sorrel leaves, a few at a time. Roll the stack into a cigar shape and run your chef's knife down the length of it, chiffonading the sorrel leaves into ribbons.
Toss the ribbons of sorrel and strawberry slices into a bowl with the sugar.
Let them macerate for 20 minutes or so.

While waiting for the strawberries/sorrel/sugar to do its thing, get the topping ready.
Melt the butter over low heat.
Once melted, combine the butter with both sugars and salt. Stir to incorporate.
Add the oats and flour to this mix. Stir  - the mixture should start to resemble crumbly, wet sand.
Set aside.

After 20-30 minutes, the strawberries will have released some juices. To combat an over-watery crisp, sprinkle a tablespoon or two of flour or cornstarch over the strawberry/sorrel mixture and gently stir to soak up the juices and thicken the filling.

Spoon the filling into either individual ramekins or mini-cast iron skillets.
Use your hand to crumble the topping over the top of the filling. I'm big on crisp topping, so I am a bit heavy handed, but you can add as thick or thin of a layer as you'd like.

Place the ramekins or skillets on a sheet pan and slide the sheet pan into the middle of the oven.
Bake for 30-40 minutes, until the strawberries and sorrel are soft and bubbly and the top is golden brown.

{Tips}
You may need more or less sugar for the filling, depending on how naturally sweet your strawberries are.
This amount is good for 2 portions served in mini-skillets that are 5' in diameter.

strawberry | sorrel crisp

June 22, 2012

Escarole, Grapefruit and Parmesan Salad | Grapefruit-Tarragon Vinaigrette

Escarole | grapefruit | Parmesan

It's been approximately 400 degrees for the last couple of days and everyone's talking about it. Apparently we're in for some 'relief' in the way of a couple of 90 degree days this weekend. You know it's hot, when cooler means 90.

Aside from hitting up the beach and maybe a movie theater for an all-day AC fest, I will also consume copious amounts of salad this weekend. Because after a week of recipe development and the oven pumping on full blast, this cook can't take the heat anymore. Doesn't mean I'm getting out of the kitchen, it just means I'm boycotting the stove.

What better recipe to leave you with for this first-official-summertime-weekend than a delicious, crispy, cooling escarole salad topped with tart grapefruit segments and a grapefruit-tarragon vinaigrette?

Grapefruit | Tarragon vinaigrette

You barely need a recipe for this - but I thought I'd include one anyway, along with some helpful tips about segmenting grapefruits - or any citrus for that matter. My favorite part about this salad is how well the hearty escarole stands up to the dressing. It doesn't cower and wilt like so many other salad greens. Because it remains so crunchy, I didn't feel the need to add nuts, but if you're in the mood for even more crunch, I think pistachios or pine nuts would be good additions.

Peeled grapefruit

So, this weekend, I recommend taking a very slow stroll, dotted with multiple stops for iced coffee fill-ups, to your local greenmarket and picking up a big, voluptuous head of escarole. And stay away from that oven!

Grapefruit segments

What you'll need:
1 whole grapefruit, peeled and segmented
Escarole, cleaned, dried and chopped - about 3-4 cups
8-10 curls of Parmigiano-reggiano cheese
3-4 Tablespoons Olive oil
A pinch of salt
3 or 4 grinds of fresh black pepper
Tarragon - 1 stem fresh, leaves chopped or 1 teaspoon dried {I always prefer fresh tarragon, it's got such better flavor, but sometimes it's hard to find fresh, so dried is a suitable substitute here}

In a small bowl, add 3 Tbsp of olive oil, tarragon, salt and pepper. Allow to sit while making the rest of the salad, this way the tarragon has a few moments to infuse the oil.

Trim the ends of the grapefruit so that it can sit flat and is stable on your cutting board.
Use the tip of your chef's knife and run the blade from top to bottom, following the curve of the grapefruit between the inner white of the grapefruit peel and the flesh. Be careful not to chip away at the flesh of the grapefruit, try to keep the knife blade just between the skin and flesh.
Turn the grapefruit towards you as you gradually make your way around the whole grapefruit.
Now that the grapefruit is completely peeled, hold it in one hand and work over the bowl in which you will mix and serve the salad. This way, all of the juices of the grapefruit will run into the bowl, adding to the dressing. Use the blade of your knife to separate the segments from the remaining pith.
As the segments are freed from the pith, carefully lay them in the salad bowl, so as not to break them.
Once all of the segments are removed, hold the remaining pith in your hand and squeeze it into the small bowl in which you started your dressing - so that all of the grapefruit juice runs into the salad dressing. This is the acid for your dressing.

Whisk the salad dressing together and taste it. Add more oil, if needed. Add more salt and pepper or tarragon if needed.

In your salad bowl, create a bed of escarole leaves, and nest the grapefruit segments on top. Gingerly, toss the two together to coat the escarole in grapefruit juice.
Top the grapefruit with 8-10 curls of fresh Parmigiano-reggiano cheese.
Drizzle the dressing over the salad and carefully toss it just before serving. Escarole salad

June 20, 2012

Game-Changer, Tip #6: Marinate Some Artichokes

marinated artichoke hearts

Who doesn't love a good marinated artichoke heart, amiright? They're so dang versatile. Salads, fish, pizzas, frittatas, pastas, antipasto platters. Whir them with some of their oil in a food processor and you've got a homemade artichoke dip. Bam.

Marinated artichoke aromatics
It's true, you can buy marinated artichoke hearts, ready to go. But if you hit the olive bar for those guys, you're looking at having to pony up somewhere around $9 a pound. And marinated artichoke hearts, with all of their lovely oily goodness, are not lightweights my friends - they have some heft to them. So, you might be unpleasantly surprised to find that the 4 whole artichoke hearts you managed to cram into that little plastic container cost more than the 6 pack you have in the other hand.

The ones on the shelf in the jar are cheaper, yes - but, they also include stuff like 'natural flavor' or preservatives and if you think that company is allowing you to pay a mere 3 bucks for artichokes packed in a high quality olive oil you are mistaken. Those artichokes that seem like kind of a good deal, are definitely packed in veggie oil - and I don't know about you, but given the choice, I'd rather be eating a heart-healthy oil, like olive oil. Not to mention, they usually taste rubbery and bland.

artichoke hearts | jar
So. Here's the tip - make your own. Buy a 12 oz bag of frozen artichoke hearts from Trader Joe's for like $2.50 and get marinating.

The end result is much better bang for your buck and your taste buds. You're in full control of flavors and ingredients - so you can rest easy chomping into those artichoke hearts knowing they haven't been overly inundated with sodium, veggie oil or preservatives. Once marinated, you have them on hand as an easy and flavorful addition to - well - just about anything.


Seasoning for marinated artichokes
What you'll need:
1 12 oz package of frozen artichoke hearts, defrosted
1 cup cider vinegar
1 cup water
1 dried chili pepper or 1 teaspoon chili flakes
1 bay leaf
3-4 sprigs fresh oregano, rinsed and dried
1 lemon - zested into strips
5 cloves garlic, whole
1 teaspoon fennel seeds

1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns


Bring all of the ingredients, except for the artichoke hearts, to a boil in a small pot over medium heat.  
Add artichoke hearts and mix to fully cover them in liquid. 

Turn the heat down and cook on a low simmer for 5 minutes. 
Using a slotted spoon, remove the artichoke hearts from the liquid and lay in a large bowl or dish to cool down to room temperature. 
{At this stage, I also retain the lemon strips, garlic cloves and chili pepper, since I want to keep those in the jar while the artichokes continue to marinade in oil, but that's up to you.}
Once the artichoke hearts have cooled down - pile them high in a 14-16 oz jar with a tight seal. 
Cover the artichoke hearts with good olive oil - make sure they are really completely blanketed by the oil - and close the jar. 
They're done. Ready to go.

{Tips}
If you don't have fresh oregano on hand, maybe go for a few sprigs of fresh thyme - or leave it out.
If you are adverse to spice, leave out the chili altogether.
You should store the artichokes in the fridge - they should last for at least a month.
Don't waste the oil - that's good stuff! Use the oil you have leftover for pestos, pasta sauces, omelettes or anything that can use and handle the extra flavor.

artichoke hearts | olive oil

June 18, 2012

Salmon in a Package

Sockeye Salmon | Capers | Lemon Zest

I love to cook, but I hate to clean-up afterwards. So, we have a rule in our house - whoever cooks dinner is 100% off the hook for post-dinner clean up. As the main cook, I like this arrangement.

Sometimes, due to varying schedules and the general unpredictability of life, the cook also becomes the cleaner. These are not my favorite nights.

Last week, we had just such a thing happen. I was making dinner, Damien had to skip out immediately afterwards for a meeting. I knew I was going to be in charge of cleaning too. Which is why {maybe} I decided to make salmon en papillote. You're probably asking yourself, Does she loathe cleaning up after dinner that much, that she would alter the way she was cooking dinner just to create less mess? Well, folks - the answer is a firm and resounding, Yes.


The contents

Cooking fish in a parchment paper package is an amazing addition to your cooking bag of tricks. Fish and veggies are steamed in this tidy little envelope and you are left with - wait for it - not. one. single. dirty. pot. or. pan.

Not a one.

Plus, it kind of looks fancy, and it definitely sounds fancy - so when you add it all up, learning to cook en papillote is a no-brainer.

Salmon
The beauty part is that there isn't much to learn. What you need every time is a piece of parchment paper large enough to tightly enfold a filet of fish and whatever veggie or aromatics you are throwing in there. The combo will change depending on what you're making.

This time around, I had some beautiful sockeye salmon to play with. Known for it's vibrant red hue, it's a wild salmon caught in Bristol Bay, Alaska.

Sugar Snap Peas | Salmon
On a side note - these days, it can be so hard to know what is sustainable and what isn't when it comes to fish. There are so many questions and misconceptions. Is it better to buy wild or farmed? Does it have to be line caught? Where did it come from? It's enough to make my head spin and avoid buying fish altogether. But, clearly not willing or able to cut fish from my diet completely, I just do the best I can to stay on top of the seafood sustainability game. The Monterey Bay Aquarium puts out a really helpful list of recommendations based on current fish stocks and quantities. 

Beans | Salmon | Seasoning

So once you have your fish, you're basically creating one package or envelope per portion. As far as flavors are concerned, I went with a classic combo of olive oil, capers, lemon zest, white wine, salt and pepper. I had gotten a huge bag of supremely sweet sugar snap peas at the greenmarket, which was a perfect little accompaniment.

In general, you can add whatever you want to this little bag - but just remember that the cooking time is only as long as it takes to actually steam the fish - which is really not long at all. I guess this is my way of telling you that putting raw potatoes in this little bundle isn't gonna work out so well. Stick to more tender veggies that will steam in the same amount of time. Or, alternatively, you can pre-cook heartier veggies, like potatoes, and stick 'em in there to finish cooking and soak up the flavors in the package.

Salmon wrapped in a package

Once your fish, veggies and seasoning are in the package, you just have to close it up - pretty tightly. The goal is to not have any of the steam or juices, and the flavors with them, escape while cooking. So, do your best to fold the edges as securely as possible. I mean, don't make yourself crazy - you're never going to create a completely airtight seal - just seal it as best you can.

Salmon package cooked

When it comes out of the oven, I like to serve the papillote right on the plate and open the package just before eating it. Make a slit with a paring knife and gently rip the top of it open. It reveals a feast for the senses. The aromas of lemon and briny capers and wine were so strong, I could taste the salmon before I even took my first bite.

Salmon en papillote Salmon | Beans en papillote

What you'll need {per filet/portion}:
1 large piece of parchment paper - depending on the size of your filets, about the width of roughly 2 pieces of printer paper side-by-side.
1 filet of salmon
1 Tablespoon lemon zest
1 Tablespoon white wine
1 Tablespoon capers
Small handful of sugar snap peas, rinsed and trimmed
A drizzle of extra virgin olive oil
Salt and black pepper
A wedge of lemon

Preheat the oven to 350ºF

With the parchment paper flat in front of you, fold it in half and open it again - leaving a crease down the center.
Drizzle a bit of olive oil just to the right of the crease.
Place the fish on top of the oil.
Top the fish with the lemon zest and capers.
Add the wine to the side of the fish, directly onto the parchment.
Nest the snap peas to the side.
Season the fish and veggies with salt and pepper.

Fold the parchment in half again, this time over the top of the fish and veggies. The fish and green beans are nested in the center, towards the centerfold.
Working around the outside, starting from the bottom - fold the parchment over on top of itself, pleating it with each fold, to create a tightly sealed pocket.

Place the parcels on a sheet pan in the center of the oven.
Cook for 12-14 minutes.

Remove from the oven and serve each parchment package on a plate - opening the packages at the last moment, just when serving.
Serve with a wedge of lemon.

{Tips}
The cooking time will vary depending on the thickness of the fish filets and the assortment of veggies you are steaming with the fish.
You can use the same cooking technique for chicken - the cooking time will generally be longer, of course.
If you're in a pinch and find yourself without parchment paper, you can use the same technique with a piece of aluminum foil.

June 15, 2012

A Taste of Paradise - Coconut Scone & Lime Glaze

Coconut scone with lime glaze
I find myself with a serious case of itchy feet. No - before you close your browser - this is not going to be a tale of athlete's foot. I don't have itchy feet, like, literally. What I mean is that I want - very badly - to take a trip. I'm not talking about a pack-the-car-and-drive trip, I'm talking about a pack-my-extra-large-suitcase-and-fly-to-an-out-of-country-destination kind of trip. Preferably a country of some exotic description. With water where when I look down while wading in it, I actually see my legs, rather than a plastic bag. And sand that isn't a cigarette butt and sand blend. Just sand. A swim up bar wouldn't hurt.

Shredded coconut
So, with this extremely overpowering feeling of wanderlust consuming both mind and spirit, I allowed myself to get sucked into the vortex that is Jetsetter. Somehow, I have managed to stay blissfully unaware of this website since its inception - which means that for the last couple of years, I didn't know what I was missing in, oh let's say, Costa Rica - and so, I didn't feel so bad.

But a couple of months ago a very dear friend told me all about the site - and to be fair - she did give me a warning about its tendency to time-suck, but I visited anyway, despite her cautionary advice. And, believe me, time-suck, it did. Fast forward and a mild addiction has formed.

Butter | Flour
Thus, maniacally searching Jetsetter from my couch is where I found myself for a few hours little while yesterday afternoon.

I'm not sure why I did it to myself, since I know full well that for a whole slew of reasons, we will not be donning new swimwear in Bali anytime soon. It was fun to dream about my escape to paradise for an afternoon, but it's not gonna happen this summer, so instead - I made coconut scones with a lime glaze. Because, if I'm not going to be sipping Margaritas in Mexico or Piña Coladas in Puerto Rico, I might as well satisfy my appetite for both the exotic and for breakfast with a coconut-lime scone.

Coconut doughFresh from the oven - coconut scone
I chose not to include an egg in my scone batter, because I like the extra moist, kind of light, not too bready texture that occurs without an egg - but if you prefer a bit more rise to your scones, go for adding an egg to the mix. 

Recipe adapted from Heather Christo
What you'll need:
2 cups flour, plus more for kneading/pressing dough
1/2 cup sugar
1 cup shredded coconut, unsweetened
1 stick of cold butter, cut into cubes
1/3 cup coconut cream {you can buy cans of cream, or if you have coconut milk, use the thick top layer}
1/3 cup cream
1 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. salt

1 Tbsp. lime zest
1/2 cup powdered sugar
2 Tbsp. cream or water

Preheat the oven to 350ºF

Mix the dry ingredients together in a large bowl, this includes the flour, sugar, shredded coconut, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Since I don't have a food processor, I use a whisk to make sure the ingredients are well combined. 

In a separate small bowl, whisk together the coconut cream and regular cream. 

Add the cubed butter to the large bowl of dry ingredients, and using your hands, rub the butter and flour together until you have a coarse sandy texture. This can also be done by pulsing it in the bowl of  a food processor.

Once you have a sandy texture, incorporate the cream mixture. I stirred mine with a wooden spoon until it was mixed enough that I could handle it. At this stage, turn the dough onto a well floured piece of parchment paper. 

Knead a bit more to bring the dough together - add a bit more flour if needed. The dough should be soft and a little wet, so don't add too much flour. Pat the ball of dough into a round disc, roughly 10-12 inches in diameter. 

Use a knife to cut the disc into 8 equal pieces. You can do this by cutting it in half, then into quarters, then divide each quarter into 2 slices. 

The dough will be quite soft, so don't sweat it.

Gingerly, using a spatula, lift each triangle of dough and place it on a baking tray lined with parchment, or a silpat liner. Do this with each scone until all 8 are on the baking tray. {If you have an extra teensy oven like I do, you might have to use two trays or make them in two batches of four}

Bake in the center of the oven rack for roughly 18-20 minutes, or until they are lightly golden and a bit brown on the bottom edges.

While the scones cook, use a whisk to mix together the cream, powdered sugar and lime zest in a small bowl. Set this aside until the scones are ready to be glazed.

After removing the scones from the oven, allow the scones to cool a bit before using either a small spoon or a pastry brush to top each scone with a little bit of lime glaze. 

Before you bite into a scone, close your eyes and think of paradise. See?! It kind of works, right? 

Inside of sconeIMG_4102

June 13, 2012

A Summer Sorbet - Blueberry & Lemon

Blueberry-Lemon Sorbet
When given the choice between ice cream and sorbet, ice cream wins nine times out of ten.

Blueberry | Lemon Sorbet
But, then we get hit with a blazing hot NYC summer day. The kind of day that makes the street melt and you have to shower twice because you're drenched in sweat again by noon. The kind of day where even these multiple showers are in vain, because beads of sweat start to form again the moment you emerge.

On days like that, the only thing I want is ice and water. On days like that, I'm so overcome by heat and thirst that I contemplate jumping into the East River for relief. And so, on days like that, rather than heavy-ish, dairy-laden ice cream, I go for sorbet. Mainly, because I want to take a bath in it, but short of that, I yearn for the cooling sensation in my hand and on my tongue - I even welcome the accompanying brain freeze caused by my too-fast and too-excited consumption of that sorbet.

It is no coincidence, then, that when the heat starts to blanket this city, so do droves of flavored ice vendors. They can be found on many street corners and inside city parks, hawking a variety of flavored ices: coconut, mango, cherry, lemon. The white paper cups overflowing with colorful ice provide flashes of instant, albeit momentary, sweet relief.

And, although we have had some pretty steamy days recently, we have not yet reached the kind of suffocating heat of which I speak. However, in preparation for what I know will be a hot summer, inevitably dotted with power outages, set to the tune of humming air conditioners and whirring fans, I am upping my homemade sorbet game and what better way to start than with sweet and tart blueberry-lemon?

Blueberry Sorbet | Lemon Verbena
What you'll need:
2 1/2 cups frozen or fresh blueberries
1-2 lemons - zested and juiced {enough to yield 3-4 Tbsp. lemon juice & 2 Tbsp. lemon zest, maybe more depending on how naturally sweet or tart the blueberries are}
1 cup of simple syrup
Lemon verbena - for decoration

To make the simple syrup - combine 1 cup of sugar and 1 cup of water in a pot and heat the water until the sugar has dissolved.
If using frozen blueberries - be sure to thaw them first.
Add the syrup to the blueberries, along with the lemon juice. Stir to incorporate.
Place the sweetened blueberry/lemon mixture into the food processor or blender, and puree until smooth.
At this point, stir in the lemon zest.
Taste the mixture - it should be a little too sweet at this stage, as the sugariness mellows out once frozen.
The sorbet base should be runny - not overly thick. If it is too thick, add a bit more water, or even more lemon juice if you think it can handle it.
Cover the mixture with plastic and place it in the fridge to completely cool.

You know your ice cream maker better than I - depending on the brand, you'll have different stages of preparation and instructions to follow. I use the KitchenAid ice cream churner attachment, which needs to be frozen for 12-15 hours ahead of time.

Once the ice cream maker is ready to go - churn the sorbet as outlined by the instructions on your machine. I churned mine for 25 minutes.

Place it in a freezer-proof container and then into, you guessed it, the freezer. This allows it to fully freeze and set.
After a couple of hours, you should be ready to go.
Scoop and top with a garnish of lemon verbena.
{Or, you can do what I really did, and eat it straight from the container. Don't tell}

June 8, 2012

Roasted Asparagus, Poached Egg & Cheese

Roasted asparagus
It's Friday again - which can only mean one thing - I'm about to embark on two days of breakfast or brunch comprised of more than just cereal or toast.

This weekend, if you can still find it at your market, I suggest making a grab for the last of spring's asparagus. Roasting asparagus concentrates all of its flavor, crisps the tops and, generally, just brings out its best qualities.
Asparagus topped with grated Parmesan cheese
I'm not sure how better to spoil yourself, or someone else, than with a decadent poached egg oozing over the asparagus, its heat slowly melting the grated parmesan cheese dusted on top.

This breakfast is kind of glamorous and really takes very little effort.

Damien whistled and called it a "hotel breakfast," which I think he meant as a good thing. I'm hoping he was thinking more along the lines of the Waldorf-Astoria than the Holiday Inn Express.

Asparagus | cheese | poached egg What you'll need:
1 bunch of asparagus
A drizzle of extra virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly cracked black pepper, 1 teaspoon of each

1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

2 fresh eggs {the fresher the egg, the better the white will adhere to the yolk}
1 Tablespoon white wine or white vinegar
1 Tablespoon salt

Preheat oven to 400ºF.
One by one, grasp each end of the asparagus and gently bend it. This allows the asparagus to snap, naturally getting rid of the woody ends.
Place in a single layer in a roasting dish.
Season with salt and pepper and drizzle with olive oil. Toss with tongs or your hands to coat.
Place in center of oven and roast for 12-15 minutes, or until they begin to crisp up and turn golden brown.

Fill a high-sided sauté pan or pot with about 3 inches of water.
Season with vinegar and salt.
Bring this to just under a boil.
Crack the eggs, individually, into little bowls or ramekins.
Create a vortex or whirlpool in the water by inserting a spoon or spatula straight into the pot and stirring the water in big circles.
Cook each egg one at a time. Gently drop the egg, from close to the surface, into the near-boiling water. The egg will do revolutions in the water, which helps to gather the white to the yolk.
Cook for about 3-4 minutes, and gently remove with a slotted spoon.
Gently rest on a clean paper towel or kitchen towel, to drain.

Once the asparagus are done, pile a handful or so on a plate. Top with a generous helping of grated cheese. Add the split poached egg and eat while hot!

June 7, 2012

Homemade Corn Tortillas Stuffed with Beet Greens

Open faced taco
I recently acquired a new toy for my kitchen - you might have guessed that it's a tortilla press. In the store, when I held the box in my hand for the first time, I was overcome with visions of fresh tortillas in all forms: tacos, tostadas, tortilla chips, enchiladas. It had me at tacos.

Before I get on with the actual recipe - a note on the line between scratch-made cooking and store-bought staples. I know that for the sake of time and money, it's always a balance to decide what should be made at home and what foods can just be purchased. It's true, these days there are a myriad of quality salsas on the market, and so you do not have to make salsa at home. The same could be said about store-bought tortillas, although how tasty or authentic or good-for-you they are is not as clear-cut. I rarely have a good experience with flour tortillas that I buy in the store, I find that they pale in comparison to the real deal. And, often, when I look at the ingredients, I put them straight back on the shelf. And, I don't think I've ever even attempted to buy corn tortillas. Both tortillas and salsa are incredibly simple to make and, there is no doubt about it, when made from scratch you will quickly realize that there is absolutely no comparison.

IMG_3649 So, I set out on my first completely scratch-made Mexican inspired kitchen adventure. The market was particularly good to me last weekend and I scored a plentiful bunch of picture-perfect beets, which I mentioned in my last post. I used the beets themselves for pasta and kept the beet greens for another day. I mean, look at these beet greens - they deserved their own meal.

Picture-perfect beets

Well - their dish had come - in the form of a rather, erm, let's say, unconventional taco.


Salsa | Tortillas
The flour for the corn tacos is called masa harina, and can be picked up in most grocery stores. Masa harina is a finely ground corn flour made from corn kernels that have been soaked and cooked in limewater and then dried and ground again. I used this brand, which you can order online if you have trouble finding it at your local store.

Masa is nothing more than masa harina seasoned with salt and mixed with water to form a dough. It's incredibly forgiving, so if you have a dough-phobia, there is no need to worry about this one. The only issue you might have is if the dough is overly moist or too dry. In either case, it is easily fixed. If the dough is too moist, it will stick to both your hands and the press, so simply add more masa harina to it. If it's too dry, it will crumble when pressed and break at the edges. If this is the case, simply add more water to the mix and re-roll.

Masa harina dough balls
Pressed Pressed corn tortillas Tacos fresh off the griddle

Once you get down with making masa at home, the possibilities are endless. I'm dreaming about all of the summer time fiestas already. Oh, and huevos rancheros for brunch. All as a result of this little tortilla press. We really were meant to be.

Tacos with Greens and Beans

What you'll need:
For the corn tortillas -
2 cups masa harina
A generous pinch of kosher salt
1 1/4 warm water, maybe more

For the beet green filling -
1 generous bunch of beet greens, rinsed, trimmed and greens separated from stalks
6 or 7 garlic scapes, rinsed and diced
8 oz of black beans, rinsed
1 teaspoon ground cumin
A dash or two of Tabasco sauce, or hot sauce of choice
2 Tablespoons olive oil or canola oil
Salt and pepper, to taste

For the tomato salsa -
16oz can of tomatoes
1 big handful of fresh cilantro, rinsed
1 jalapeno, trimmed and diced (optional)
3 cloves garlic
Salt and pepper to taste


Prepare the masa by combining the masa harina, salt and water in a large bowl. Mix it together until it forms one smooth and cohesive ball of dough. Add more water if needed.
Cover in plastic and allow to rest for one hour.
After the dough has rested, cut the ball into 4 equal quarters. Then, cut each quarter into 4 equal portions again. Each of these 16 portions of dough equates to one tortilla.
Hand roll each of the 16 pieces of dough to form mini balls of dough that are roughly 1 1/2  inches in diameter.
Sprinkle the tortilla press with extra masa harina, to prevent the dough from sticking. Alternatively, you can also line the press with plastic wrap.
Place one ball in the center of the press, and using your thumb, press it into a small disc.
Bring the top of the press over the dough, and use the lever to press it into a flat tortilla.
The tortilla should easily come away from the plastic wrap, if using, or the press.
Follow the same process for each of the 16 pieces of dough. Laying each pressed tortilla flat on a piece of parchment paper.

To cook the tortillas - get a cast iron griddle or pan nice and warm over medium-low heat.
Add the tortillas directly to the heated griddle, one or two at a time.
Let the tortillas cook for about 1 minute, or until the edges begin to curl. Turn the tortilla over, it should be flecked with golden brown spots on top.
Cook on the other side for another minute and, using a spatula, remove the tortilla from the pan.
Continue until all 16 tortillas are cooked.

Prepare the filling by filling your sauté pan with salted water. Bring this to the boil and add the stalks of the beet greens. Parboiling them will soften the stalks a bit so that they can be sautéed with the tender leaves.
Boil for just 2 or 3 minutes, until they are al dente. Drain the stalks and water from the pan.
Dry the pan, return it to the stovetop over low heat and add the oil. Once the oil is warm, add the diced garlic scapes and sauté until they begin to turn golden brown at the edges.
Add the rinsed and dried beet greens and blanched stalks to the oil. Season with salt and pepper.
Sauté for just a 3-4 minutes, or until the greens have wilted.
Add the black beans to the mix, stir to incorporate and taste for seasoning.
Cook until the black beans are heated through.
Turn the heat off and leave filling to the side.

The salsa is as easy as putting all of the ingredients into the bowl of a food processor or blender and pureeing until smooth. Depending on your tomatoes, you will have to adjust the salt and pepper accordingly - some canned tomates are more flavorful depending on brand, how they were grown and when they were picked.
I used a whole jalapeno because I like hot salsa - but you can use half, or none at all.

Once all of your components are complete, you're ready to assemble the tortillas.
Reheat the filling if necessary, just by warming it in the pan over low heat.
I made some open-faced, kind of like tostadas, and some rolled like normal tacos.
I used a tongs to gather the greens and stalks and a spoon to make sure each taco got a generous portion of scapes and black beans as well.
Once stuffed, I topped with salsa and served with a wedge of lime.

The only thing that was missing was a margarita.